The secrets of surfing till you're 95
[2023-10-04 23:52:28]
Can I surf at the age of 95? When will you quit surfing? How do you do 80-year-old paddle? Can you diving at the age of 70? What is the size of the waves I can see at the age of 65?
Fortunately, all questions have a warm answer. Yes, surfing may be until the last day of our life. Roy Earnest has written a very interesting article in the magazine "Healthy Aging". With "surfing life" he remembered the "baby boom generation" and "surf boom" of the 1960s and reminds me that the first generation surfer is still alive with the wave.
The life of the surfer is changing. Career, mortgage, wife and children, long-term dinner with friends, ill. It all came in. Some people waving their hands at least over the weekend. At the same time, a long board returned to the surf shop, happiness came back.
"When the surfer exceeds 40 or 50 people, this is no longer a surprise, but it surprises a lot of people, most people are not surfers." When the surfer gets old this feeling goes It will become stronger, "Earnest says.
Doc Ball is 93 years old, he is still underwater. "Surfing helps me keep my passion," he said. The first Portuguese surfer, Pedro Martins de Lima, is 81 years old and is on the Lightning Bolt.
"Health Movement" Active, attitude, passion and participation in conscience are the main factors of ongoing surfing. Of course, you may need regular exercise, a good nutrition plan, and a spiritual focus on what you really want.
"Arthritis, stroke, heart disease, back pain, skin cancer, etc. are considered to be most inevitable parts of aging, from the surfer's point of view, one of all these data descriptions is that many Roy said that people under the age of 50 are more likely to enter over 70's.
We saw the latest ASP World Masters at Rio de Janeiro, including surfers in their 40s. They are very competitive, they ride very fast, they do not wipe out buckets or come up with their way of thinking.
So, if you dream of surfing in a veteran year, remember to eat well, drink often, well train and focus on the spirit of the ocean, for example to provide a yoga pose to the surfer.
When I went to work this morning, I heard stories about NPR that reminds me why surfing is addictive. Surfing is fun, it makes us feel young, wild and free, that is not a secret, but that is not why surfing is addictive. Surfing is addictive as it is based on an unexpected reward system. More than sixty years ago, researchers discovered that when mice got unpredictable rewards, they experienced mandatory behavior. American psychologist B. F. Skinner conducted research to provide random timing rewards for mice. During the waiting time between coincidence rewards, the mice are at the edge of their seats (or wheels or mountains of wood chips) and are actively looking forward to the next. They slapped the stick in the cage secretly wanting to withdraw the reward.
This makes me think. Surfing has a dark and moist secret. Mainstream media overlooked the endless golden summer that is perfect for surfing. Surfing will not believe you, all the mass combinations, beach parties, sunbathing, attractive sunburns, wild sex, longboard, guitar, and stereo of Jackflip Johnson, advertising agencies will believe you. Keep it away, but again, a more realistic version, the version you actually see every day in UK and Ireland's beach parking lot is as far away from that rose.