Surfing Through the Ages

Whether you are on a short board, long board, paddle board or surfboard, all romantic sports begin with traditional Polynesian surf. California Beach offers some of the most popular waves on the west coast, but turns west to the Polynesian people living in Hawaii to see the history of surfing.

Since the fourth century AD, Polynesians began to migrate from the surroundings of Tahiti to the Hawaiian islands. Settlers bring traditional Polynesian fickle entertainment, or abdominal boarding. Pipo finally evolved into a surf rising on a 24-foot tree board

Hawaiian surfing is deeply immersed in local culture and religion. Special chant and rituals are used for surfing, making plates, and summoning perfect waves. Social classes surf on a variety of beaches and people gain their position through the strength of the sea. Kahuna or experts are respected

However, with the arrival of Captain Cook in 1778 and the opening of the Pacific Ocean, Hawaiian surfing entered a declining phase. However, in the early 20th century, non-native Hawaiian and island tourists began to be interested in this sport.

Surfers such as Jack London, George Fres, Duke Kahanamoku and Dock Balls all help to spread surfing. London wrote an important article "Royal Sports: Surfing in Waikiki" in 1907. In 1910, Huntington Beach City founder Henry Huntington hired Hawaiian surfer George Freres to introduce ancient art. After surfing at Huntington Beach Pier in 1925, sports became increasingly popular after "surfing father", Duke of Hawaii, Kahanamoku. John Heath's "Doc" Ball further showed his cricket skills in the 1940s and 1950s.

The first West Coast surfing championship was held in Huntington Beach in 1959 and won the title of "Surf City" at Huntington Beach. Surfing became common in the early 1960's and was advertised by guitarist Dick Dale and singer 's Beach Boys, Jane and Dean' surfing musicians'.

Since then, the popularity of surfing has reached its peak. Thanks to the new advances in sheet metal technology, thick red wood boards using balsa wood, glass fiber and polyurethane have been eliminated. Popular movies such as "Endless Summer", "Beach Blanket", "Gidget" etc. brought surfing effect to Volkswagen from Waikiki to San Onofre, and held a surfing competition.

California State Park transforms the state's most famous wave to the state's beach, including the legendary Malibu Surfrider Beach, Doheny, Trestle of San Onofre, and popular San Elihostate Beach, to protect coastal lands, I want to protect. Surfing has established its position in California's culture and thanks to California State Park it will be possible to capture the perfect Kali wave in the coming years.

In the 1960s, surf supplies were mainly sold in California and Hawaii. Today, surfware is also being sold in Nebraska interior. In the Golden Age, surfing is a male-led activity, and women are often seen as accessories. There is no more! I can prove that women are as strong as men. Today, the stereotype of a typical surfer is very different from what it was decades ago. A professional surfer is no longer a long hair hippie, it is a healthy, performance oriented and appropriate individual who travels all over the world and carries the best waves on the truck. As expected, this led to the collapse of the surf community.

Bethany Hamilton is Hawaiian who began surfing at the age of 11. By the age of 13, she was a successful surfer and highly respected in the surfing world. On October 31, 2003, after her left arm was bitten by a tiger shark, she pulled attention to the state. She recovered completely and resumed surfing. MTV Books publishes Hamilton's book "Soul Surfer" based on the main movie.

Through her decision, beliefs and hopes, Hamilton, Bethany are sources of inspiration for millions of people. At the age of 13, Bethany threw her left arm on a 14 foot turtle shark. And it seems it has finished her career as a rising surfstar. One month after the attack, she returned to the water and won her first national surfing championship in two years. In 2007, she realized a dream of professional surfing. Her story is told in New York Times's best-selling autobiography and the 2011 movie "SOUL SURFER". Bethany's non-profit organization, Friends of Bethany, produces programs for disconnected people and teenagers to provide hope through Jesus Christ. She used her platform as a professional athlete to promote a healthy and healthy lifestyle In 2014 she wrote "BODY AND SOUL". Her greatest happiness, as a wife and mother, is a moving surfer as a professional surfer that continues to motivate her to touch her life on a worldwide scale, and is a moving speaker.