Free Narrative Essays - Surfing the Crowd

The crowd of surfing is in my mind, this is my greatest courage. This is far from heroic behavior, but I have overcome all anxieties, as my memory still feels a sudden increase in adrenaline. Close your eyes and remember hot summer nights, I can still hear the sweetest improvisation of punk rock in its purest form. The drummer is on fire. The base player is pure power. Striker changed everyone in the crowd, including myself, to pure energy. My music is wrapped around me.

When I went to work this morning, I heard stories about NPR. That reminds me why surfing is addictive. Surfing is fun, it makes us feel young, wild and free, that is not a secret, but it is not a reason why surfing is addictive. Surfing is addictive as it is based on an unexpected reward system. More than sixty years ago, researchers discovered that when mice got unpredictable rewards they experienced forced behavior. American psychologist B. F. Skinner conducted a study to provide random timing rewards for mice. During the waiting time between coincidence rewards, the mice are at the edge of their seats (or wheels or mountains of wood chips) and are actively looking forward to the next. They unexpectedly knocked the bar in the cage, hoping that they could potentially trigger rewards.

As a novice surfer, if I definitely are surfing somewhere a lot, you would think that it should be safe, and I think it is doing good surfing. This may be true. On the other hand, I think that audience is the most dangerous factor in surfing. Some attractions need to be crowded, there are extra things. But I also believe that some places happened to be famous. Browse coastlines on Google Maps. If you like beach leisure, head to the beach. If you prefer to take a break, look for something that protrudes slightly from the coast and allows the waves to bend around it. You can find promising coral reefs that create even more point brakes. If you have a wide open ocean outside the coast, you have the opportunity to obviously get high quality waves and different wave types!