Physics of Water Waves

All waves have reflection, refraction, diffraction, interference properties. These phenomena were observed using corrugated grooves. The corrugated groove is composed of a large rectangular tray having a transparent bottom. The water was tanned to a depth of about 1 cm. Next, place the light source on the water pan. When the water is disturbed, you can see the water on the white side under the tray. The first phenomenon observed was a reflection.

The wave of water common in our daily life is particularly interesting for physicists. Please explain the detailed fluid dynamics in the wave of water beyond the scope of the introductory physics course. We observe the wave of water that often propagates in 2D, but we restrict our discussion to one - dimensional propagation of this atom. In observations including horizontal and vertical fluctuations, the specificity of water waves was observed. As a result, the particles constituting the waves move circularly clockwise as shown. Vibration motion is highest at the surface and exponentially decreases with depth. Waves are generated by the wind on the sea. As long as the waves move faster than the wind above the waves there is energy transfer from the wind to the waves.

The waves are most often caused by the wind. The friction between the wind and the surface water generates wind or surface waves. When the wind blows to the sea or the lake, continuous disturbance can cause a peak. These kinds of waves spread in open seas and coastal areas. Bad weather like hurricanes can cause more dangerous waves. Strong wind and pressure from such a strong storm caused storm surges and a series of long waves occurred in the deep sea away from the coast and became intense as they approached the land. Other dangerous waves may be caused by underwater disturbances that rapidly replace a large amount of water, such as earthquakes, landslides, volcanic eruptions. These very long waves are called tsunamis. Storm surges and tsunamis are not types of waves you think to hit the coast. These waves roll like a sea level rise on the coast and may reach far inland.