Long Shore Current and the Moving Shoreline

When the long bank levees and the moving coastline wave approaches the coast and "sees the ocean floor", water accumulates and forms a circuit breaker. This process proves that the coastline is not static. These waves are mainly at an angle to the coastline and produce a long coast current parallel to the coast. Long embankment flow not only allows water to flow through the surf zone, it also makes sediment parallel to coastline. Longshore current is a function of wave incidence angle. For example, when a wave approaches the coastline from the south, a long ocean current moves from the south to the north, but the long ocean current and its accompanying sediment transport are only one of the dynamic processes.

According to John Pethick, the coastal current is "the ocean current parallel to the coast" (87). This happens when the wave facing the land hits the coast at an angle and returns to the sea at the opposite angle. Part of the refracted water returns into the deeper water, and a part of the horizontal moves the coast. As described by Pethick, these parallel currents are considered long bank currents. Long ocean currents can also be compared with shallow rivers along the beach, as they tend to move through shallow water. Due to the possibility that waves hit the beach at various angles and various strengths, the direction and speed of the long-distance current fluctuate according to these characteristics.

Waves are usually not perfectly parallel but close to the coast with sharp angles. Therefore, when a wave enters shallow water, the wave bends (or refracts), while the shallow water makes a flow along the coast and becomes parallel to it. This current is called cross flow and spreads from the coastline to the breaking wave area. The speed of the current is related to the magnitude of the wave and its entry angle. Under fairly static conditions, coastal flow can only travel at speeds of 10 to 30 cm per second, but under storm conditions it can exceed 1 meter per second. The combination of waves and coastal current is used to transport large amounts of sediment along shallow areas close to the coastline.

Another important aspect of volatility is refraction. Wave refraction is that the waves bend from one angle toward the coastline. The shallow bottom is the part of the wave closest to the shore, the first shock makes the particles of the wave more elliptical. Therefore, the waves and their particles decelerate. As the wave approaches the coastline, the process continues and the waves are bent to landing. The lamp then ran towards the beach at an angle and ran the same way. Repeating this process, the sand will be exchanged. Long range drift is the cause of this displacement. The combination of long-range drift and long-range current is an efficient way to transport large amounts of sand at the beach and very shallow waters (up to 425).